WAAC Backcountry Snowshoeing 2024 - Guest reflection from Lauren Blackwell.
Our adventure began when we arrived at Ljubljana airport, greeted by Mikaela’s firm handshake and warm smile. Whilst waiting for the last 2 members of our group to arrive we got to know one another over pizza and Slovenian hot chocolate~ delicious! And just the start of lots of amazing food... We headed to Hotel Jelka, picking up the 7th and 8th group members from the airport on route. After a long travel day we were all pleased to hear that we wouldn't be meeting for breakfast and introductions until 8am.
Day 1
Over breakfast Mikaela went through a rough itinerary for the trip, the weather forecast and how this might shape our plans. With warmer temperatures than expected for this time of year the snow-line was much higher than usual. Rain and mist was forecast for day 1 and 2 of our trip, but Mikaela had plenty of options for us to get out and explore.
We discussed our experience of winter mountaineering and our goals and aspirations for the trip. Although we had varying experiences we were all keen for a mixture of learning, fun and amazing mountain views. After talking through the kit we would be using and packing our day bags we headed out together in the van. After a 10 minute drive we stepped out to the fresh smell of pines and our first sight of snow on the ground!
Micro-spikes on, we wandered up through the forest tracks to Hut Blejska Koča. For many of the group this was a first experience of an alpine hut and of traditional Slovenian hut food ~ Jota and Ričet (hearty soups with barley or saurkraut). And of course apple strudel.
Slightly stuffed, we put our layers back on and ventured out for our first snowshoeing experience! The snow was now abundant enough at 1633 metres and we journeyed uphill smiling like children with a new toy at Christmas. Before we headed back to the van Mikaela guided us through correct use of the Avalanche Trio (something we became very familiar with over the trip); Transceivers to locate companions in an avalanche, probe to search and shovel to dig. Back at the hotel we thawed out with a sauna and an early night.
Day 2
Drizzly and low vis today so we had a leisurely morning to avoid the heaviest showers and used the time to familiarise ourselves with the map of the area and avalanche risk assessment. With avalanche risk being level 3 due to rain on snow-covered grassy slopes and new snow higher up, we stayed low, which gave us the opportunity to visit Koča Uskovnica.
No need for snowshoes, but the micro-spikes came in handy on consolidated snow patches. Despite being well away from any avalanche risk we practised our transceiver checks to get into good habits. We hiked through the planine (Slovenian word for lower mountain pastures where there are still many traditional small holdings and cattle graze in summer months). Mikaela shared her knowledge of traditional Slovenian farming practices as we passed the shepherds huts and houses.
With an ecologist in the group and Mikaela’s local knowledge we paused on route to notice the flora and fauna and we were fortunate to see foxes, deers and buzzards amongst the trees. We fell into easy conversation and shared stories of our previous adventures over lunch at the hut; more Jota, Ričet and Strudel before following an undulated route back to the van. This was our last night in the hotel before heading further up into the mountains, so before tea Mikaela encouraged us to plan some possible routes for our longer walking day, which we would consider over the next few days.
Day 3
Hiking bags packed and a short drive later we set off from the valley near Savica waterfall to ascend around 1000 metres to Dom na Komni. As we climbed the mist teased us with glimpses of Lake Bohinj and we took these opportunities for a breather from the relentless uphill. We were all excited to change into our snowshoes 15 minutes from our end point to get in some more practice for our longer journey tomorrow.
Of course, when we arrived at Dom na Komni we had to try the strudel here to see how it compared! After a leisurely hour, we were back out playing in the snow, although practicing some serious avalanche rescue skills. We were becoming more confident using the transceivers to locate and the probe to identify a positive 'strike'. Over dinner we agreed a plan and route ideas for tomorrow. We were all excited for a full day of snowshoeing and sunshine!!
Day 4
We awoke to glaringly bright mountain views and a gorgeous blue sky and headed out with smiles on our faces. A short walk later we arrived at Koca pod Bogatinom where we would sleep that evening. The hut guardian and his wife greeted us with freshly baked doughnuts as it was Shrove Tuesday. Even though we'd just had breakfast we all made room to enjoy one and new we'd value the energy boost for our longer day ahead.
After dropping our sleeping stuff we continued towards Poljanica, taking it in turns to break trail and to laugh with each other when one of us inevitably took a tumble! I was really intrigued to see the conditions on the ground after the last couple of days assessing maps and avalanche forecasts. We paused regularly to take in the views, grab some snacks and discuss route decisions. Bringing together all we had learnt and putting it into practice was invaluable and gave me a real boost in confidence for my own assessment and decision making.
With greater snow coverage at this height we really got to put the snowshoes to the test and feel the difference they make when crossing the snow. It was a dream to be up in the mountains, with a wonderful group of women adventuring, learning and laughing together.
Once back at the hut, Mikaela kept the psyche high and together we dug out a snow kitchen to cook our dinner on the stove. Watching the sunset as we tucked into our boil bag meals and a beer was a perfect end to a perfect day. And I have to mention the cute little foxy who graced us with her presence. The hut guardian feeds her regularly, so she was not shy, hovering close by hoping for some treats. She hadn't been seen for 2 months, so he was delighted to have her return, as were we.
Day 5
Our last day in the mountains didn't begin as expected but was certainly memorable. One of our group had been very sick through the night, possibly sunstroke from yesterday, despite copious sunscreen application (although it was later confirmed to be a nasty virus by the hospital). We had a leisurely morning, to give her the opportunity to improve, rehydrate and eat some food but it quickly became obvious that she wouldn't be well enough to walk back down to the valley and the decision was made to call mountain rescue for her safety.
Mikaela was calm and so supportive, and the team arrived by helicopter within 30 minutes of being called. Our whole group were so kind and understanding, helping to get her bag packed and ready before she was whisked off to hospital to get the treatment she needed. After she'd flown off, knowing she was in safe hands, we all shared a giggle at the fact the hut guardian had greeted the mountain rescue team by pointing them in the direction of the casualty and then asking them what type of strudel they wanted! The team boarded the helicopter with patient on one arm and a hot bag of strudel on the other. They certainly deserve it!
After the adrenaline of the morning we wandered back to Hut Dom na Komni where a couple of our group members decided to have a leisurely day chilling. The rest of use took the opportunity to join Mikaela for our last snowshoe journey of the trip and headed south west to Planina Govnjač, where we admired the mountains from a different angle and made snow angels together. A text from our poorly group member reassured us she was on the mend. On the route back we really pushed our snowshoes to the max with some steeper slopes and greater confidence to just go with it, knowing the landing was soft and inconsequential if we did fall.
Back at the hut, we had to get our strudel fix before making the journey back down to the valley where we'd left the van. A bit of a drag towards the end on tired legs, but we all kept each other going with the thought of chips for tea!! Sadly, chips were not to be at the bustling lake-side hostel. As we were all politely tucking in Thea pointed out that our pasta sauce was just a slightly thicker version of the carrot soup we'd had to start! The cake and beer made up for it though and we were all just glad to have a warm shower and have Libby reunited with us, having been discharged from hospital that afternoon.
Day 6
Our trip had come to an end, but as our flights weren't until later in the day Mikaela very kindly took us to Bled and showed us the best place for scenic pictures and a gloriously cold swim in the lake. 5 of us braved the water and that memory will live in my mind for a long time to come.
Our trip wouldn't be complete without a final lunch together, fitting in as many Slovenian delicacies as possible! I'm surprised we could all fit in the van to get back to Ljubljana! In just 5 days we'd shared and seen so much. Having the opportunity to do a women's only trip was so special.
Everyone in the group commented on how it cultivated a feeling of being safe enough to learn through trying, making mistakes, laughing and asking questions. Everyone was supportive, understanding and open. Our guide, Mikaela, struck the perfect balance between being warm, friendly and fun, whilst always making us feel safe. I left Slovenia having had a really fun trip but also with the knowledge, confidence and aspiration to return and give snowshoeing in these beautiful mountains another bash.
A huge thanks to Lauren for sharing her thoughts from our first WAAC Backcountry snowshoeing trip. We would also love to invite you to visit Lauren’s wonderful business Fellbeing, based in the Lake District (UK) offering sound healing, restorative movement and breathwork.
This trip was run in partnership with the amazing Women’s Alpine Adventure Club, supporting Women to learn, adventure and journey together in Alpine environments.
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