Sleeper train Slovenia

In July we travelled from Slovenia to the UK for our summer visit via Sleeper train. As a family with a young child, and for our first sleeper train adventure, we decided for this trip to travel with sleeper train in one direction and to fly home. We hoped this would maximise the excitement at the start of a trip and minimise the tiredness at the end of it.

There are multiple options for arriving in Slovenia via Sleeper train, which could of course include an extended European grand tour. We went for something in the middle. Not choosing the most direct route or the longest, but an option that would still be easier than driving and would give us the chance to explore two cities along the way.

This journey could easily be reversed for folk travelling from the UK to Slovenia, and I’ll pop some other options at the bottom of the blog as well.

Stage 1: Ljubljana to Zurich (Departs Ljubljana 22.10 arrives Zurich 11.36am)

Unsure what to expect for our first family sleeper train adventure, we caught the bus from Ajdovščina into Ljubljana mid-afternoon, checking our two small suitcases into the bus station luggage storage, and giving ourselves plenty of time to enjoy a wander along the river with an ice cream and up to the castle, followed by pizza in Yugoslavia’s fist pizzeria (one of our favourite Lj pizzas). As evening descended, we spent a little time at a small play area over the road from the train station and then made our way to the waiting room.

Ljubljana train station is currently undergoing a huge renovation, this means as of 2026 the toilets are rundown and around the back of the construction area and the waiting area is simply cordoned off in a larger empty section of the station. The train was delayed by about 40minutes, but the main station closed in the evening and we were advised to make our way to the platform. On the platform we were pleasantly surprised. It was well lit and occupied by lots of other families also waiting for the sleeper train. We loved the atmosphere, enjoying our last bit of the wait and the excitement of the train arriving. For a 6 year old, entering our own private room on the train, with bunkbeds was almost too thrilling! Much fun was had clambering up and down the bunks, and investigating every inch of the room before crashing out to sleep as the train departed the station.

The little one slept like a dream the whole way, even enjoying a brief lie-in as morning came around! We didn’t know what to expect from someone who often still needs us in the night, but she slept better on the train than at home. We found this first train a little less comfortable than the second. Perhaps it was an element of anxiety but we were less gently rocked to sleep and more rumbled along through the night.

However, waking up to the forested mountains of Switzerland was wonderful, as we enjoyed breakfast and the scenery rolling by.

Arriving in Zurich was equally delightful. Finding the luggage storage was easy, with a friendly assistant on hand to help if we needed it. With shouts of ‘Where’s the chocolate!’ (from one of us), we made our way to tourist information and planned a little day out with the help of the very welcoming staff there. First stop was a chocolate staircase near the station, and of course tasting a couple of options as we went. We then strolled through the old town, with a pause at a fun, bright and bustling play area, close to a beautiful river viewpoint. We walked past the iconic Women's only swimming area and made our way to the water taxi and on to a lakeside family friendly swimming spot with slides, shady spots to relax, great facilities and of course stunning lake access. After a few hours we walked back along the lakeshore to the city, it was a hot day and our littlest adventurer couldn’t wait to play in the fountains outside the opera house. More old town exploring followed, with a make your own chocolate experience and topped off with dinner at Hiltl restaurant, famed to be one of europe’s first vegetarian restaurants with a fantastic rooftop terrace.

From Hiltl it was just a short stroll back to the train station, which has small and comfortable waiting rooms. Inevitably this train was right on time - would you expect anything less from Switzerland! -.

We loved our day out in Zurich, and left feeling like there was so much more we could do. I’m not a city person naturally, but this felt like a city designed to encourage swimming, and get folk outside, which, as could be expected, chimed well with our way of being.

Stage 2: Zurich to Amsterdam (Departs Zurich 21.59 Arrives Amsterdam 8.59)

The sleeper cabins were newer and more comfortable on our second train, with small gift bags waiting on each bunk. Maybe because we were all tired from our big day out, or maybe because we were departing the mountainous regions for a smoother ride, but we all slept brilliantly on this train.

We woke up to the open green landscapes of the Netherlands, as we excitedly looked out the window, trying to spot windmills in the landscape.

We arrived into Amsterdam at around 9am, welcomed by quiet streets and a cool morning. We forgot to head into tourist info and since we were trying to minimise our tech use on this trip, we simply strolled in what we thought felt like a good direction. This option did allow us to find some pretty little streets but most cafes and shops were closed until later in the morning. As the streets started to fill, and the day heated up, we decided to seek some shade and an easy activity, with a visit to the Maritime museum. I don’t think we could have made a better choice. Alongside meaningful and at times challenging exhibits about Amsterdam’s nautical history, in separate areas there are whimsical and engaging exhibits for kids to learn and explore. From the replica ship, I gazed longingly at the swimming area of Marineterrein. Unfortunately we didn’t have time for a swim on this visit, but if we come back this way, it will be top of my list.

I have mixed feelings about Amsterdam. We loved the museum and I would like to swim at Marineterrain, but the main city is struggling with over-tourism. This is evident not only with the masses of people arriving after lunch but also with a disastrous rubbish problem. It was so sad to see such a huge volume of litter on almost every street, with wide open bins and much of it blowing into the canals. Our little one was also really upset by this, and asked if we could do a litter pick. I did a little research later on, and you can read more about Amsterdam’s battle with litter here.

No more sleeper trains awaited, but we had one more stage to get back to the UK.

Stage three: Amsterdam to Hull (Coach departs Amsterdam 17.00 and ferry departs Rotterdam at 20.30 arrives in Hull 8.00)

Departing Amsterdam was a bit of a challenge. We collected our bags from the train station and then walked alongside hundreds of others to the port area where the coach would collect us. There’s no shade at the coach waiting area, so we would pack some umbrellas for future!

Once on the coach it was an easy journey to Rotterdam (you could also catch the ferry from Amsterdam to Newcastle). We paid a little extra for a room with a window, a double bed and a bunk and it was 100% worth it! After the classic ferry-style kids entertainment, dinner and a visit to the deck, we went back to our room and enjoyed the sunset through our own little porthole, a magical experience for the littlest one and something we will all remember. With calm seas, we slept beautifully and woke with time for a coffee and pastry, as the ship docked in Hull, where we were welcomed by my fabulous parents who drove to meet us - otherwise we would have caught one final train.

What we loved:

The atmosphere of so many families travelling by sleeper train in Ljubljana.
Waking up to new landscapes and countries.
The excitement of overland travel.
Reducing our carbon footprint by halving our flights.
Zurich (pretty much everything about it!).
The Marina area of Amsterdam.

What were the challenges:

The late departure from Ljubljana with a 6 year old.
Data charges in Switzerland (we were aiming for a minimal tech trip, but we still bought a package with our network provider. Otherwise, even with just data in the background, you could find yourself with hundreds of euros in fees).
The litter in Amsterdam.

One more tip: We travelled light for this trip, only taking two small wheeled suitcases (10kg size each) for the three of us for our two week trip, with backpacks for exploring during the day. It would be challenging with larger luggage, as the sleeper cabins are compact and the luggage storage lockers at stations are very limited for larger bags.

Would we do it again?

100%! We have been really taken with this way of travelling and will definitely do it again. In fact, next year we are already planning a different route.

What options are there?

We used Back-On-Track.EU to plan our route, as it has a great map showing all the night train options.

In 2026 we went: Ljubljana to Zurich, Zurich to Amsterdam, Rotterdam to Hull (with a ferry).
Next year we’ll go: Trieste to Milan (day train), Milan to Brussels (sleeper train), Brussels to London (Eurostar). Trieste is on the Slovenian border and has easy access to the Slovenian coast and karst regions.
Previous guests have used: Hull to Rotterdam (Car ferry), Drive to Dusseldorf (2hr 30mins), Dusseldorf to Villach (sleeper train with car transport), Drive Villach to Slovenia (40 minutes drive to Jesenice).

I’m always keen to hear your travel journeys. Let me know if you have explored a land-based route from your home to Slovenia!

Would you consider journeying to Slovenia via sleeper train?

Love and Adventure

Mikaela x

As always this blog is AI-free and written by me. Because this was a tech-limited journey, we chose not to take so many photos, hence the small selection in this blog.